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Long read  ·  Gold, memory, and a dead newspaper

Declared
Weight

Gold taught me how a country lies to itself. I learned the lesson young, in a newsroom that closed forever in March.

Presses in George Street ran for the last time in the small hours of Sunday, March 15, 2026. Stabroek News printed its final edition that morning, closed its website the same day, and handed its parent company to a liquidator. Chairman Brendan de Caires had told the staff a month earlier that print advertising worldwide collapsed from roughly US$110 billion in 2004 to US$26 billion in 2024, and that the state Department of Public Information owed the paper more than G$80 million in unpaid advertising. Arithmetic closed the newspaper. Arithmetic cannot measure what closed with it.

I trained inside that newsroom. David de Caires and his wife Doreen founded the paper in November 1986, when a Guyanese editor who printed an inconvenient fact still calculated the personal cost of printing it. Reporters learned a trade there that the country had nearly forgotten. We learned to check, to call back, to ask the second question, to write the sentence that would survive a lawyer. Thirty-nine years later the presses stopped, and the arithmetic they had kept for four decades stopped with them.

Gold gave me my education in that newsroom. Georgetown ran on gold in those years, and gold ran on paper: declarations, receipts, dealer licences, export forms, customs manifests. Journalism in a gold economy reduces to one question, asked over and over until somebody flinches. Weigh what came out of the ground. Weigh what reached the page. Explain the difference.

Water Street

Stabroek Market opened on November 1, 1881. Nathaniel McKay designed it, the Edgemoor Iron Company of Delaware cast and shipped it, and workmen bolted 80,000 square feet of Victorian iron together on land reclaimed from the Demerara River. Georgetown grew around that building the way a city grows around a heart. Ferries landed there. Minibuses turned there. Farmers, hucksters, fishmongers, tailors, and goldsmiths worked the same iron shed, under a clock tower that rises sixty feet and can be read from the river.

Gold reached that market by boat and minibus. Porkknockers worked the creeks of the Mazaruni, the Cuyuni, and the Potaro, men named for the salted pork they knocked apart with a cutlass at the end of a day in the bush. They sluiced gravel through matting, burned the concentrate with mercury, and carried the result out as sponge gold, a grey porous lump that looks like slag and weighs like a mortgage. Bartica collected them, a frontier town at the meeting of three rivers where gold dealers line the main street. Boats ran down to Parika. Minibuses ran the road to Georgetown. Law gave a miner twenty four hours from his arrival in the capital to reach a counter and sell.

Watch that counter and you have watched the entire economy. A dealer receives the sponge, sets it on a scale, tests it with acid or a touchstone, calculates fineness, subtracts his margin, and pays. Paper follows the payment. The weight written on that paper becomes the national production statistic, the royalty base, the tax base, and the figure a reporter prints in the morning. Nothing else about the transaction survives. Bush keeps no receipt, rivers keep no ledger, and the man who carried the sponge has already caught the boat back upriver.

Jewellery filled one quarter of that market. Gold arrived from the interior in raw, dull, granular form, crossed a counter, met a scale, and left as a chain, a bangle, a ring, a receipt, or a bar. Shops lined the aisles, and behind the glass stood families who had worked the trade for generations. Shell Mohamed kept a store in that quarter. Guyanese called him Shell then, and Guyanese call him Shell now, and his son Azruddin was a boy in those years, small enough to stand behind the counter and watch.

A boy behind glass is guilty of nothing. I want that sentence on the record before the rest of this essay proceeds, because the record deserves precision, and because the child I remember and the man now facing a Florida indictment occupy different moral universes. Children inherit trades. Children inherit fathers. Children do not inherit charges.

Author’s insert ◆ 01

Shaun, this is your memory and only yours. I will not invent it. Write the shop here as you actually saw it. The colour of the light through the market roof. The scale on the counter and its make. The smell of solder and metal polish. What Shell wore. How he spoke to a young reporter. Where the boy stood.

Two hundred words of physical detail here will carry the whole essay, because everything that follows is documents, and documents need a room.

Two counters

Desmond Hoyte opened a second counter within the same eighteen months, and the second one shaped the trade as decisively as the first. Guyanese had bought and sold currency on the pavement for years, at a street rate that reached more than four times the official rate. Government licensed non-bank dealers to trade foreign currency in November 1989 and implemented the cambio system by March 1990. Legality arrived for the black market almost overnight.

Consider what the two reforms built together. A merchant could hold a gold dealer’s licence and a cambio licence at the same address, buy metal in Guyana dollars across one counter, sell metal abroad in United States dollars, and bring the proceeds home through his own exchange window. Every leg ran legally. Every leg also ran on declarations the merchant wrote himself. Guyana legalised the plumbing and left the meter in private hands.

That design outlived the man who drew it. Among the first domestic consequences of the June 2024 sanctions, the Guyanese authorities suspended the cambio licence held by Mohamed’s Enterprise. Thirty four years separate the licensing of the cambios from that suspension. Governments changed six times in the interval. The architecture never changed once.

Hoyte’s opening

Desmond Hoyte inherited a wrecked economy in August 1985 and spent the next seven years prying it open. Hyperinflation ran past 100 per cent a year. Shelves emptied. Currency traders worked the pavement outside the banks. Hoyte answered with the Economic Recovery Programme, launched in 1988 and formalised in 1989, which devalued the dollar, scrapped price controls, privatised more than twenty state enterprises, and invited foreign capital back into a country that had spent a generation nationalising it.

Canada answered the invitation. Parliament rewrote the Mining Act in 1989 to admit international mining companies, and Omai Gold Mines Limited incorporated in 1991 with Cambior of Quebec and Golden Star Resources holding 95 per cent and the Guyanese state holding five. Omai poured US$243 million into the Essequibo bush and opened the largest open pit mine in South America. Gold moved from Guyana to Canada, and Canadian money moved from Canada to Guyana, and a young reporter in Robb Street chased both directions of that traffic.

Reporters covered the Omai story as a triumph, and much of it deserved the word. Omai also delivered the other kind of lesson. Four million cubic metres of cyanide-laced waste escaped the tailings pond into the Essequibo River in August 1995, poisoning the water of communities who had never been asked whether they wanted a mine. Foreign capital writes cheques. Foreign capital also writes consequences, and the consequences land on people who never saw the prospectus.

Declaration slip ◆ 011989–1995
Gold, average spot price, 1990
US$383 / oz
Cambio system implemented
March 1990
Street rate against official rate, pre-reform
up to 4×
Omai Gold Mines Ltd, incorporated
1991
Canadian ownership, Cambior + Golden Star
95%
Guyanese state ownership
5%
Capital invested
US$243 m
Cyanide waste released, August 1995
4,000,000 m³
Sources: US Department of State Country Commercial Guide; World Gold Council; contemporary reporting. Full list below.

The declaration

Law governed the metal itself, and the law was elegantly simple. The Guyana Gold Board Act of 1981 made the Board the sole legal buyer of Guyanese gold. Miners had to bring their gold to Georgetown and sell it to the Board within twenty four hours. Parliament amended the Act in 1994 to break the monopoly and licence private dealers, and dealers thereafter bought, held, and exported gold under authorisation from the Board.

Understand that architecture and you understand every gold scandal Guyana has produced since. Value enters the country at a mine face nobody polices, travels a river nobody patrols, and becomes legal at a counter. Declaration performs the alchemy. A miner sells, a dealer buys, a form records a weight, and the weight on that form becomes the truth. Whatever crossed the counter unrecorded simply never existed.

Gold does not need to be stolen. Gold needs only to go unwritten.

Researchers have documented the consequence for thirty years. Janette Bulkan and John Palmer examined the 1989 mining reforms in The Extractive Industries and Society in 2016 and found that a small number of nationals had acquired more than 75 per cent of small scale concessions and more than 40 per cent of medium scale concessions. Concession holders became landlords. Landlords rented ground to miners, collected a share of production, and carried no legal duty to remedy the mercury, the pits, or the ruined creeks. Rent reached the landlords. Damage stayed with the miners. Regulators watched.

I did not have that paper in 1990. I had a notebook, a market, a counter, and the growing certainty that the numbers Georgetown published and the gold Georgetown handled were two different quantities.

Author’s insert ◆ 02

The run in goes here. Reconstruct it from your own memory and any notes or clippings you still hold. What sent you to that counter. What question you asked Shell Mohamed. What answer he gave, in his words as near as you can recall them. Whether anyone else stood in the room.

Write it as testimony rather than accusation: what you saw, what you were told, what you could confirm at the time, and what you could not. Keep the verifiable and the unverifiable in separate sentences. That discipline protects you and it strengthens the piece.

What I could not print

Every reporter carries a notebook of stories that never ran. Sourcing failed, or a lawyer blanched, or the one person who knew stopped taking calls. Guyana in those years compounded the difficulty, because the men who moved gold also moved cash, and cash bought silence more efficiently than threats.

I answered that frustration by starting a newspaper. I set out the account publicly in a letter Stabroek News published on September 7, 2011: I founded the Kaieteur newspaper and National Media and Publishing Company Limited, I named the paper Kaieteur Weekend World, I mortgaged my father Dharam Samaroo’s house to secure seed financing from the Institute of Private Enterprise Development, and I bought the printing press in Canada. Investigation was the entire point. Guyana had one weekend paper committed to nothing except investigation.

I resigned within months. Sources had begun warning me about the company I was keeping, and I walked away from the press, the company, and my father’s collateral rather than continue. Glenn Lall carried the paper forward and built Kaieteur News into the daily Guyanese read today, and the founding I describe belongs to a weekend journal that preceded it. Records matter. Attribution matters. I state my part and claim nothing beyond it.

Reporters learn early to separate what they know from what they suspect, and the separation costs something every time. I suspected a great deal in those years. I could prove very little of it, and a Guyanese newsroom in 1990 published proof or published nothing. That discipline felt like cowardice at twenty six. It reads to me now as the only thing that kept the trade honest.

The arithmetic, thirty five years later

Nobody needs my old notebook. The United States Treasury published the arithmetic.

The Office of Foreign Assets Control sanctioned Nazar Mohamed, his son Azruddin Mohamed, Mohamed’s Enterprise, Hadi’s World, Team Mohamed’s Racing Team, and Permanent Secretary Mae Thomas on June 11, 2024. OFAC alleged that between 2019 and 2023 Mohamed’s Enterprise omitted more than 10,000 kilograms of gold from import and export declarations, evaded more than US$50 million in duty taxes owed to Guyana, and paid bribes to customs and government officials to falsify documents and clear the movement of people and currency.

A grand jury in the Southern District of Florida returned an eleven count indictment, unsealed on October 2, 2025, charging conspiracy, mail and wire fraud, and money laundering. Prosecutors disclosed that United States authorities had seized a shipment of gold bars worth roughly US$5.3 million at Miami International Airport on the very day the sanctions landed. Both men deny the allegations. Nazar Mohamed has answered questions about the tax charge by asking reporters to name anyone in the world who has been entirely honest with taxes, and has insisted on his right to trade at home, telling Guyanese media that the constitution protects him. Azruddin Mohamed, asked twice whether he evaded taxes owed to the Guyana Revenue Authority, said he had no knowledge of the matter.

Read the OFAC allegation slowly and you will notice that it describes no theft. Nothing was taken from a vault. Gold left the country in the ordinary way, on ordinary paperwork, through an ordinary airport. Declarations simply understated the weight. Thirty five years of Guyanese governance, five presidents, one oil boom, and the mechanism has not changed since the afternoon I stood in Stabroek Market and asked a jeweller how a scale works.

Declaration slip ◆ 022019–2026
Gold omitted from declarations, 2019–2023 (alleged)
10,000+ kg
Duty taxes evaded (alleged)
US$50 m+
Gold bars seized, Miami, 11 June 2024
US$5.3 m
Counts in the Florida indictment
11
Guyana gold production, 2024
434,000 oz
Gold declarations, 2024 / 2019
423,000 / 641,828 oz
Production smuggled out, official estimate
up to 50%
Gold, record spot price, 28 January 2026
~US$5,590 / oz
Sources: US Treasury OFAC; US District Court, Southern District of Florida; Guyana Ministry of Natural Resources via Associated Press; market price archives. Full list below.

Canada reappears in the modern file, and the reappearance is exact. The Royal Canadian Mint suspended purchases from a major Guyanese exporter in 2021 after officials suspected that shipments carried Venezuelan gold, an allegation the company denied. The Guyana Gold Board had opened an investigation in October 2020 following complaints from the Mint and other buyers, and produced no published findings. Canadian capital opened the Guyanese gold trade in 1991. Canadian refiners closed the door on part of it in 2021. Both events turned on the same question of what a declaration actually declares.

Guyana’s own Ministry of Natural Resources estimates that up to half of local gold production leaves the country unrecorded. Compare that figure to the global benchmark. Swissaid mapped every gold flow on the African continent in 2024 and calculated that between 32 and 41 per cent of African gold production goes undeclared, a scale that shocked the sector. Guyana operates above the African range. The OECD reported in December 2025 that mismatches in world gold concentrate trade data widened from US$873 million in 2020 to US$4.31 billion in 2024, roughly a third of all reported global imports. Opacity is not a Guyanese invention. Guyana simply perfected an early version of it.

The boy behind the glass

Azruddin Mohamed founded a political party called We Invest in Nationhood on June 23, 2025, ten weeks before Guyanese voted. WIN took 16 of 65 seats on September 1, 2025, finishing second to the governing People’s Progressive Party. Police arrested him on October 31, 2025, one day after Washington transmitted its extradition request. Opposition members of parliament elected him Leader of the Opposition on January 26, 2026, in a vote that lasted under five minutes. Sixteen WIN members and one member from Forward Guyana voted for him. Twelve members of the APNU coalition walked out after the nomination.

Speaker Manzoor Nadir had warned the chamber beforehand that electing a man wanted abroad would stain the parliament and the country, and that the responsibility would rest with the members who cast the votes. Members cast them anyway.

The Caribbean Court of Justice dismissed the Mohameds’ final appeal on July 29, 2026, three days before I wrote this sentence, lifting the interim stay it had granted in March and returning the committal proceedings to Chief Magistrate Judy Latchman in Georgetown. Justice Winston Anderson observed from the bench that the matter is complicated. Complication is one word for it. Guyana now has an Opposition Leader whose surrender to a foreign court proceeds through its own magistrates while he sits in its parliament.

Thirty five years separate a boy behind a jewellery counter from a man behind a parliamentary desk, and the same unweighed metal runs the length of the distance.

Prosecution will settle the charges, and I take no position on guilt. Courts exist precisely so that reporters, columnists, and old men with long memories do not decide such questions. Something else concerns me, and it concerns Guyana more than any verdict will.

Author’s insert ◆ 03

Close the circle personally. Describe the moment the news reached you in Ontario. Where you sat. What you felt when you connected the sanctioned name to the man at the counter, and the party leader to the boy.

Answer then the question this whole essay has built: what would you say to that boy, if the market aisle opened again and you could stand in it once more.

What a newspaper was for

Consider the sequence of the past eight months. Guyana suspended the licences of 107 Brazilian miners on January 5, 2026 for failing to declare gold. Parliament installed Azruddin Mohamed as Opposition Leader on January 26. Gold reached its highest price in recorded history, above US$5,500 an ounce, on January 28. Stabroek News announced its closure on February 13. Presses stopped on March 15. The Caribbean Court of Justice cleared the extradition on July 29.

Guyana lost its most consistent independent record keeper in the exact season it needed one most. That timing is not conspiracy. That timing is worse, because it is ordinary. Newspapers die of arithmetic while the stories they existed to tell reach their climax.

Stabroek News wrote its own epitaph in an editorial on March 11, four days before the end, and the paper named the loss precisely: fewer reporters would ask the questions that matter, and fewer would follow up after being rebuffed. Power behaves differently when it expects examination in tomorrow’s edition. Remove the edition and you remove the expectation.

Journalism, at its root, performs one civic function. Journalism declares. A newspaper is a national scale, and every honest story is a weight recorded on a form that outlives the men who handled the metal. Guyana has spent forty years arguing about undeclared gold while the institution that did the declaring quietly went unfunded, underpaid, and finally unprinted. Both failures share a single mechanism. Value moved. Nobody recorded the weight.

A country becomes what it records. Everything unrecorded eventually belongs to whoever is willing to carry it out of the room.

I left Guyana. I built newspapers in Canada, worked in television, wrote a column for years in the paper that trained me, and now I build a company whose entire purpose is authorship. That path looks like a career change and reads to me like one continuous argument. Every person carries an unweighed life. Most of it goes undeclared, unwritten, and therefore unowned, and whatever a person fails to author gets authored for him by employers, algorithms, governments, and family expectation.

Stabroek News taught me to write things down before somebody else decides what happened. That lesson survives the presses. Guyana will get another watchdog, in some digital form, run by people younger than my first notebook. The country will need it, because the metal keeps coming out of the ground, the price keeps climbing, and the counter is always open.

Weigh the metal. Record the weight. Sign your name to the form.

Sources and verification

◆ Every figure in this essay traces to a named public record

  1. US Department of the Treasury, Office of Foreign Assets Control, sanctions designation of Nazar Mohamed, Azruddin Mohamed, Mohamed’s Enterprise, Hadi’s World, Team Mohamed’s Racing Team and Mae Thomas, June 11, 2024.
  2. United States District Court, Southern District of Florida, eleven count indictment unsealed October 2, 2025; reported in Stabroek News and Kaieteur News, October 6–7, 2025.
  3. Caribbean Court of Justice, judgment dismissing the Mohameds’ appeal, GYACV 001 of 2026, July 29, 2026.
  4. Associated Press, election of Azruddin Mohamed as Leader of the Opposition, January 26–27, 2026; News Room Guyana on the parliamentary vote.
  5. Associated Press, Guyana pledge to curb Venezuelan gold smuggling and Ministry of Natural Resources estimate that up to 50 per cent of production is smuggled out, June 28, 2025.
  6. Associated Press, suspension of mining licences of 107 Brazilian miners and 2024 declaration figures (423,000 troy ounces against 641,828 ounces in 2019), January 7, 2026.
  7. Guyana Gold Board Act, Chapter 66:01, Act No. 12 of 1981, and the Guyana Gold Board (Amendment) Act 1994; Guyana Gold Board on the 24 hour sale requirement and dealer licensing.
  8. Reform of the Guyanese foreign exchange market: non-bank traders licensed in November 1989 and the cambio system implemented by March 1990, with the pre-reform informal rate reaching more than four times the official rate; Stabroek News and Kaieteur News on the origin of the cambios.
  9. Suspension of the Mohamed’s Enterprise cambio licence following the June 2024 OFAC designation; INews Guyana.
  10. Guyana Extractive Industries Transparency Initiative, mining sector overview: artisanal and small scale gold mining by hydraulic dredging and sluices, mercury used at the final extraction stage, sponge gold sold at Guyana Gold Board locations.
  11. Janette Bulkan and John Palmer, “Rentier nation: Landlordism, patronage and power in Guyana’s gold mining sector,” The Extractive Industries and Society 3(3), 2016, pp. 676–689.
  12. US Department of State, FY 1997 Country Commercial Guide: Guyana, on Omai Gold Mines Limited (1991), 95 per cent Cambior and Golden Star ownership, and US$243 million invested.
  13. Cyanide release from the Omai tailings facility, August 1995, approximately 4 million cubic metres; contemporary reporting and subsequent Quebec Superior Court class action, 1997.
  14. Swissaid, “On the trail of African gold”, May 2024: 32 to 41 per cent of African gold production undeclared; 435 tonnes smuggled in 2022.
  15. OECD, Illicit flows of gold concentrates in the maritime space, December 2025: trade mismatch widening from US$873 million (2020) to US$4.31 billion (2024).
  16. Royal Canadian Mint suspension of purchases from a Guyanese exporter, 2021, and the Guyana Gold Board investigation opened October 2020; Stabroek News editorials, May 31, 2021 and July 4, 2025.
  17. Brendan de Caires, statement to Guyana Publications Inc staff, February 13, 2026, on the global fall in print advertising from roughly US$110 billion (2004) to US$26 billion (2024) and the G$80 million state advertising debt; News Source Guyana.
  18. Stabroek News editorial, “The closing of a newspaper”, March 11, 2026; final edition printed March 15, 2026.
  19. Stabroek Market: opened November 1, 1881, designed by Nathaniel McKay, built by the Edgemoor Iron Company of Delaware, approximately 80,000 square feet, clock tower 18 metres.
  20. Gold price history: average spot price US$383 per ounce in 1990; record high of approximately US$5,590 per ounce on January 28, 2026.
  21. Shaun Michael Samaroo, letter to the editor, Stabroek News, September 7, 2011, on the founding of Kaieteur Weekend World, the IPED loan secured against Dharam Samaroo’s house, and the printing press purchased in Canada.